Maeva, the marine biologist, was waiting at the dive centre the following afternoon. After introductions were made, the resort manager, Laurent, approached and joked “I have just made a telephone call to advise the manta rays you’re coming, so they’ll be waiting for you”. We laughed and in high spirits we boarded the boat and I replied that if we saw less than ten manta rays then Laurent owed us a drink, to which he agreed.